Difference between revisions of "Alien Dice Game"

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The average life span of battle Dice is 3 years if they're continually battled. If not, they'll live up to 25 years. *Retired Dice can live a long time and are often used as guard animals and pets later on following a game.. others are sold for pure pit fighting or for other trainers to make use of.  
 
The average life span of battle Dice is 3 years if they're continually battled. If not, they'll live up to 25 years. *Retired Dice can live a long time and are often used as guard animals and pets later on following a game.. others are sold for pure pit fighting or for other trainers to make use of.  
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Most Dice are cast aside at the end of a master game.  They were not valued as much as their master players.  The ADC could claim them, but usually didn't bother, because Dice from a fallen master player were typically unmanageable.  (AD Day 27, strip 115)
  
  
 
*A Grand Master Dice is a Master Class Dice (20 sided) that has been raised to maximum level at least twice.
 
*A Grand Master Dice is a Master Class Dice (20 sided) that has been raised to maximum level at least twice.
 
  
 
== Set Types ==
 
== Set Types ==

Revision as of 18:05, 11 September 2014

This is the original Alien Dice Game using Dice that can only affect non-sentient beings.

If you want to participate in the game, you simply pay a large sum of money for the Dice and equipment and sign up with the AD Council to join, or exchange your privacy for the equipment (i.e. they broadcast every single thing you do in your game on a frequency and make money off of you).

The Dice

Each round of the game played is unique, as the set of Dice fought varies in abilities through binding to the local fauna (usually). The cast Dice itself searches for something compatible to its abilities, and knows what it's looking for. If it doesn't find something it can use as 'raw material', it'll revert to the previous world's form. For the most part, it searches for higher level lifeforms and skips over things like tiny insects and bacteria (there are some insects, but most of them are 'complex' lifeforms). There's also safety locks which seek out activity in the brains of the closest creatures, looking for zero activity in one area to declare it non-sentient and allow it to process.

DNA is completely encoded into compressed data that is stored in the Dice. It’s like a tiny computer, keeps track of everything about what they are and what they will be. It also makes them a lot easier to carry around. They can be complex, with up to 20 sides on a Dice, each side representing a base level… although the sides don’t really matter much once they’re bonded to a creature, just the initial toss. (AD, Day 1, strip 27) A blank dice would bond with the closest non sentient creature at the level on the top of the dice. (AD, Day 1, strip 28)

For the first two sets of Dice, the bases are chosen by the player. Then another set was added for each set of the game they've done that were randomly selected … or maybe not so random. Each Dice has an original alien base form which they will look more like with each level up, although sometimes will retain some attributes of prior bonded forms.

Once bonded, the non-sentient critter is gone for good, its physical body absorbed into the Dice and melded with what was there before. The good thing is that they become sentient, although not always to a great degree. The designers of the game also put in little modifiers that affect the final outcome of the Dice, small randoms that weren't in the original creature. The way the Dice bonding works is that the creatures will take on characteristics of whatever they bond with, but the further along they level, the more they will look like their solid base forms, but still have some characteristics of their prior blendings.

  • There isn't actually a 'rule', but it's suggested that a player not have Dice of the same base species and opposite sexes. When the game was initially created,... they didn't think about the fact that they were using animals that could possibly breed and actually HAVE litters after the process. So,... the ADC usually suggests that, but it happens. And most of the time, the litters are destroyed by the owner (or accidentally when the bearer levels up) or given to the ADC to study ways to prevent it.
  • The encoding in the Dice saves all their DNA, and 'improves' upon it. They can interbreed with any Dice or creature that has at least one matching base. (AD Day 8, strip 21)
  • When Dice do breed, they tend to revert to a feral state, and are extremely protective of their young. (AD Day 21, strip 174)
  • The children of Dice have no place in the world on which they're played, and need to be removed. (They can be easily fixed to prevent further breeding.) They aren’t actual Dice, not like their parents. Dice are always left intact, because it would be useless to remove any organs from their bodies. They just grow back because the dice coding is DNA based. The resulting babies of two Dice are not dice bonded. Sometimes they will retain attributes of their parents that are not natural, but they are just animals and forbidden from being bonded to a dice. (AD Day 22, strip 16) Sometimes they are highly valued as pets for show, but not for the game. If the eggs were to hatch, they are property of the ADC and would likely be auctioned off. Most children of Dice that can talk will learn to talk, but talking doesn't necessarily mean they're sentient. (AD Day 21, strip 17)

They can be anything at level one, but it does get progressively nastier and more powerful with each level. Randoms refer more to the modifiers on the dice. The basic set contains the same modifiers, fire, water, ice, wind,... the Randoms are completely random. Since they have multiple attributes to roll amongst, you can have half a dozen fire and no wind.

Dice very rarely get sick, and when they do it tends to be something serious. (AD Day 19, strip 20) Tarlic Syndrome is one such disease. It’s contagious and will spread to other Dice in close proximity to the infected Dice. Once it reaches full incubation, it causes constant fluctuation in a Dice’s levels and wears them out until they die from exhaustion. (AD Day 19, strip 21)

Playing the Game

It is a race, and a test of strategy. Considering that they're usually directed within a selected area close to the Dice they're to catch next, they don't really have to do a lot of searching. The first phase is more about searching, usually within a mile to five mile radius of the Dice. The next phases put them closer and closer to the Dice, which also get more aggressive the higher their set and level.

When the Dice are first cast, it's completely random. They have to capture all the Dice that are at the lowest levels and use them to get those that are highest. By probability, it should be an even spread, although sometimes you'll have a lot of really low rolled Dice and really high ones... it gets worse the more sides that are on the Dice. Set one usually has 10 dice, each with six sides.

In the normal game, the Dice are hunted down by the lower sided ones first, and they don't have to be the same class, i.e., you can have 10- 4 sided basics and 15 - 5 sided legends if you wanted. (Lexx's are assigned though.)

Once a game is begun, the players cannot stop the game. It's against the rules because of the destruction some of the Dice are capable of causing on the planet's natives. The longer they're free, the wilder they get. Therefore, they need to finish the game. In the event a player is incapable of completing a game, the ADC has trained forces that hunt down and either recycle or destroy all errant dice unless another comes in and claims them.

If for some reason the player cannot complete the game, such as a player in the Alien Dice Master Set being captured, or player death, the Dice of that player are either wiped and recycled, or simply destroyed, unless someone steps forward to claim responsibility for them. There is an entire section of the ADC devoted to destroying rogue Dice. (AD, Day 4, strip 25)

Basic rules

Modifiers last half an hour, maximum and you can only roll one modifier for every two levels of your Dice - for example, if you have a level 5 Dice, you can roll 2 modifiers. There are many kinds of modifiers. You can't use a modifier that has more sides than the Dice you're using it on has. Equipment modifiers will work on the majority of Dice classes, but there's always one that it won't work with, ... like putting armor on a Water Dice will make the armor have a negative effect instead of positive and rust immediately, immobilizing the Dice. *Not ALL rolls on a modifer are positive, negative effects and useless attacks are possible.*

You can actually USE the same modifier on any Dice without regard to what the main attribute of that Dice is. Dice are purchased and won. The more expensive the Dice modifier, the more 'interesting' things they can do. Each Dice will also have a probability of a 10% negative effect on a roll. I.E., you roll a modifier and it could land on one of ten things,... one of them could be something like slow *slows YOU down.* or Newton's Law. You hit something and get hurt in the process. Modifiers hold attacks, affects and defenses.

When fighting another Dice, at least of the Basic Set, you can use more than one Dice of your own as long as their levels combined don't go over the Dice level of the one you're fighting. (AD, Day 5, strip 1) Through careful planning, this can be VERY useful. *Note that this is only on lower class Dice. The Master level Dice are fair game for ALL of your Dice if you so desire, because they're just that powerful.

Some Dice are better at fighting certain classes/types of other Dice, most of these are common sense, water is strong against fire, light will hurt dark, dark hurts illusion *Illusions just don't work against darkness for some reason.*

If a Dice fights too long, or is too severely injured, it'll go unconscious for a planetary cycle (on Earth a period of 24 hours) to heal and be reset. (AD, Chapter 2, Strip 13) The penalty for unconsciousness is being turned into a dice, then having to start at level 1. When they are released, they gain a level every 12 hours or after one hour of battle activity, until they reach their original level. (There is a loophole in this Dice code, once a Dice reaches their highest level, they can go back to a lower level anytime they want to, but can't revert back until an hour has passed, or they can remain that way after an hour and just be in a more convenient form.) A knocked out Dice will buzz when the reset is complete and it is ready to be rolled out. (AD, Day 4, strip 1)

They can go back levels at will if it's really required, since they get larger with each adjustment/level up - sometimes it'll be better to revert to a smaller form. After an initial 32 hour period, they can adjust themselves back to what level they were before. This is grounded in the fail-safes which keep them from being killed most of the time.

When a Dice is caught, the player needs to scan the Dice caught before the next can be located - and they all have to be on the ship before they can begin looking for the next. If one is missing, they have to find it first. (AD, Day 1, strip 41) They also clip the captured dice with a ring that helps keep track of vital signs. (AD, Day 5, strip 13)

Dice can kill other Dice, the elements can kill a Dice if it landed in a bad spot, and the native wildlife can also kill a Dice. They aren't invincible, although they will usually revert before death occurs.

They go up a level every thirty-two hours until they reach the next level, but there's a loophole. Training at a lower level gives them more experience and carries over into the next level, so a Dice locked at a lower level to train will level up stronger. You can lock Dice levels when you want to train them without leveling them up, when they do level, they level stronger the longer they're held back. (AD, Chapter 2, strip 35)

When space is limited, or a particular Dice is too troublesome, they can be stored in Dice form. The Dice are in stasis when in Dice form, but atrophy after a set time limit and do have to eat, sleep, etc. while stored. The reason it causes them to atrophy is that while they are stored as digital data, they are designed to force the player to take them out and train them instead of just leaving them in the Dice all the time and using them when needed, encouraging the use of all Dice, and to even out the playing fields in tournament classes. (AD Day 5, strip 19)

The Dice need to be let out of dice form for at least an hour a day to train to avoid atrophy, which involves a loss of strength and will. (AD Day 11, strip 20)

It's actually not against the rules for someone else to catch a Dice that belongs to another player for the player, even for a non-player in the event of illness or preventative injury. Someone essentially standing in for the player, but there's a limit to how many can be done that way, only 1 per set, and they must be turned over to the player once caught. It would be breaking the rules to capture one of a player's Dice to prevent them from completing a set, and the captor would be heavily fined and disqualified from ever playing the game again.

If there is outside interference preventing a battle from being completed, it is called due to interference. The attempt is cancelled and has to be re-fought a full cycle (rotation of the planet) afterwards.

When the average player or indentured player visit a world, they typically hire a native to guide them around. They then have the native sign a form giving their permission to guide the player. Failure to fill out the paperwork can result in charges being filed (*probably kidnapping type), and an indentured player's game being reset. (AD Day 11, strip 48)

After the Game

After a game is complete the Dice are reset to erase their base form, although the information is still there and used in upcoming forms, although it's never exactly the same twice. *Well, unless it's thrown without anything nearby the Dice can use.

That means there are several different statuses for the dice:
Blank: No Data
Reset/Recycled: Personality and memories reused.
Purged: Everything purged.

Resetting/Recycling are basically the same thing. It just means that even though they might be a level 6, everything they've achieved is reset to whatever the new starting game roll is.

The personality does stay the same, with the appearance being altered by the Dice. That's why Mittens doesn't really look much like Mittens after the bonding and has two tails. She's been modified by the Dice using her as a base to work from. They get even stranger looking the higher the level. Dice begin as blank slates, but retain most of their memories and skills when recycled and recast. They can be wiped of everything if the owner wishes. *Let's say it's a particularly troublesome Dice. It can start new.

The Dice are recyclable up to three times. After the third casting, the form is permanent - they cannot be recast and will remain in their final form until destroyed. They can be kept and used in a different 'game' or they can be destroyed. If they're used (recast) any further they tend to get unstable. They do retain some, but not all of their previous incarnations memories and mannerisms. (Although, Zeta only has ONE incarnation and he always looks the same because he was only bonded to one creature and Lexx wanted him to remain looking the way he does so he rolls him on the ship, away from any creatures so that he reverts to a prior form.)

The average life span of battle Dice is 3 years if they're continually battled. If not, they'll live up to 25 years. *Retired Dice can live a long time and are often used as guard animals and pets later on following a game.. others are sold for pure pit fighting or for other trainers to make use of.

Most Dice are cast aside at the end of a master game. They were not valued as much as their master players. The ADC could claim them, but usually didn't bother, because Dice from a fallen master player were typically unmanageable. (AD Day 27, strip 115)


  • A Grand Master Dice is a Master Class Dice (20 sided) that has been raised to maximum level at least twice.

Set Types

Originally Lexx's final play-through was listed as containing 10 - 6 sided Basics, 10 - 4 sided Legends, 15 - 5 sided Randoms, 10 - 10 sided Machines, and 5 - 20 sided Masters

Now listed as Basic Set: 10 6-sided Dice, Random Set: 15 8-sided Dice, Legendary Set: 10 4-sided Dice, Minor Set: 10 10-sided Dice, and Old-style Master Set: 5 20-sided Dice

Basic Dice 
The basic Dice Set consists of 10 Dice. These Dice are known as the basics because they are primarily used to capture the rest of the sets and are usually the first set of Dice a player will purchase. They have a set element/ability. A player will be set down within a five-mile radius of this type of Dice, (AD, Day 2, strip 4) with the search being part of the process of obtaining the Dice. The player is allowed to bring two Dice against these provided their combined levels are no more than twice the pursued Dice's level. (AD, Day 5, strip 1)
Random Dice 
The random Dice Set consists of 15 Dice. These Dice are known as the randoms because they are not set with a predetermined ability - it's random among three different attributes for each Dice and some duplication of abilities does occur (multiple randoms displaying the same ability). They are creatures first and depend mainly on the modifier Dice for their abilities in combat. This set is used to advance the Basic Set several levels before taking on the more powerful Dice. (Although it's useful to get all your Basic Set up to level 6 before facing them. (AD Day 14, strip 1)) The player is set down within sight of these dice. (AD Day 8, strip 6) Only one Dice of any level can be used to actually battle these Dice, although another can be brought along for use as a decoy, (AD Day 14, strip 12) or as bait. (AD Day 20, strip 114)
Legendary Dice 
The Legendary Dice Set consists of 10 Dice. These Dice are a unique set and one of the newest innovations in the game of Alien Dice. They have to be pre-coded before being dropped with as much information as possible about the myths and legends of creatures that exist on the gaming world they're to be dropped in. They will become that creature once they are dropped. While these Dice only have 4 sides, they are not a set to take lightly. They are sometimes aggressive and will attack players as well as the regular battling Dice.
Minor Dice 
The Minor Dice Set consists of 10 10-sided Dice. These Dice are no minor matter to deal with despite the name. The majority of Dice sets are coded to search for creatures to bond to above a certain size and weight depending on their class. The Minor set is the only one that choose to look for creatures below that size and weight - minor life forms, such as insects.
Master/Old Master 
The Master Dice Set consists of 5 20-sided Dice. These Dice are the final challenge and the most difficult to battle. Often, they will grow bored of waiting to be found and cause havoc for the local populace. Sometimes, they will go searching for other Dice and work their own strategies against the player who needs to catch them. They are intelligent, aggressive, and not to be taken lightly. The more times they've been caught, the more experienced and less agreeable they become. Players are not allowed to fight these dice directly and must use captured Dice to fight them. (AD Day 14, strip 1)
Machine Dice 
The Machine Dice Set consisted of 10 10-sided dice with AI's that bonded to non-living organisms, resulting in mecha-type Dice.

Dice Master levels

Level Name / Typical Dice Set // Set Requirements/constraints

Apprentice/Beginner / 8 D6 Basics, 2 D8 Basics //Must be either 8D6 + 2D8 or 7D6 + 2D8 + 1D12

Basic / 8 D6 Basics, 8 D8 Basics, 4 D12 //Basics Fixed

Junior / 10 D6 Basics, 10 D8 Basics, 10 D12 //Basics Fixed

Intermediate / 10 D6 Basics, 10 D8 Basics, 10 D12 Basics, 3 D4 Legends, 3 D5 Randoms, 2 D10 Machines, 1 D16 Elementals, 1 D20 Masters 30 basics, 10 non-basic, limit 10 N sided Basics, 5 Legends, 5 Randoms, 2 Machines, 1 Elemental, 1 Master

Advanced / 10 D6 Basics, 5 D8 Basics, 5 D12 Basics, 5 D4 Legends, 6 D5 Randoms, 5 D10 Machines, 2 D16 Elementals, 2 D20 Masters 20 Basics, 20 non-basic, limit 10 N sided Basics, 2 Elementals, 2 Masters

Master / 6 D6 Basics, 2 D8 Basics, 2 D12 Basics, 10 D4 Legends, 10 D5 Randoms, 10 D10 Machines, 5 D16 Elementals, 5 D20 Masters 10 Basics, 10 Legends, 30 others, limit 15 Randoms, 15 Machines, 5 Elementals, 5 Masters, number of Randoms must be >= number of Machines

Grand Master / 6 D6 Basics, 5 D8 Basics, 4 D12 Basics, 8 D4 Legends, 8 D5 Randoms, 14 D10 Machines, 15 D16 Elementals, 15 D20 Masters 15 basics, 30 Legends/Randoms/Machines, 30 Elementals/Masters, limit 8 N sided Basics, 15 Legends, 15 Randoms, 15 Machines, 15 Elementals, 20 Masters